B & B & B – Brașov and Bran and Bears
Day 8 – Thursday 15th October
Today was our only 2-night stay during the Romanian leg, staying at the lovely Schuster Boarding House in the centre of old Brașov. After a sensible start we joined Victor for a two-hour walk around the old town. Brașov is a town of just under 400,000 people in the greater metro area, with, like so may places in Romania, a recent history going back 1,000 years (the ancient history rgoes back 10 times that figure).
We started with a visit to the Brașov synagogue.
Then a visit to the "Black Church", built between 1383 and 1476, and supposedly named as it was damaged by the great fire of 1689 and remained dirty/black for many years. Some historians dispute this, but nevertheless this is its popular name.
Intriguing were the reversible pews so that the congregation/audience can face backwards to see concerts on the grand (3993 pipe) organ.
The wealthy citizens of the time had their own designated pews and rugs for adornment and warmth.
Then a wander around town ...
After the walk it was on to Bran Castle. At around 1,000,000 visitors annually Bran Castle is the most visited attraction in Romania (true) and is widely regarded as the home of Dracula (untrue). There is no evidence that Vlad (III) Dracula ever visited the place. In recent times it is probably best known as the favourite home of Queen Maria/Mary of Romania, although the presence of the Teutonic Knights in the 1200s is interesting. A worthwhile visit because of what it is, but not my favourite Romanian castle thus far.
Next stop was a hike for a couple of klms into the Parcul National Piatra Craiului. Quite spectacular.
But the highlight of the day was the wild bear watching. We were driven to a hide in the depths of the Carpathian Mountains and sat transfixed for well over an hour and watched up to 14 bears about, roughly, 60 metres away. The bear population would seem to be well over sustainable levels, which of course poses environmental, conservational and ethical dilemmas (we were told that there are currently 12,000 bears in Romania against a sustainable population of perhaps a third of that). Thankfully, that’s someone else’s problem to resolve. We just get to watch the mothers with their cubs, and the occasional male dropping in.
So, just a couple of bear shots and videos follow ( I've got lots!) ...
Last day on the road tomorrow. We’ll be back in Bucharest tomorrow afternoon, and on Saturday on the road (in the air, actually) to Istanbul.
Are the bears protected ? They are rather sweet