Third-third-third

Dix-neuvième jour - Friday 3rd July, Arthez-de-Béarn - Sauvelade - 20.6 klms (running total approx 345.9)

There's a maxim for/on the Camino Frances that the first third is for the body, the next third is for the mind and the last third is for the spirit or the soul. Given that a maxim is a generally accepted truth, as opposed to an absolute or scientific truth, I hold the third-third-third maxim to be a pretty accurate rule of thumb. For the Camino Frances. Or the Via de la Plata. Or others of those long walks. Guided solely by physiology (mine, anyway), I don't see the same maxim applying to a short walk like this. Short is still relative of course, because by most measures a walk in excess of 400 klms would not reasonably be called short.

So what, I hear you wonder? Well, today at day 19 (including the two rest days, so 17 days of actual walking), over some 350 klms, I actually hit the first third (if I'd been walking the CF or the VDLP). Not that I was doing any simple algebra to determine that statement, it's just that today I felt fully on top of the walking. The pack didn't seem all that heavy (it actually was heavier than normal as I was carrying Janet's water), the legs felt strong and the feet had stopped aching. Now to be honest, I had taken an analgaesic this morning, and that would have had some effect, but I was still feeling this way as I charged up a hill at close to 2pm, and I figure that most of the drug effect would had worn off by then.

So this was an interesting matter to ponder as I wandered - does the "thirds" rule only apply if a third is in the region of a couple of weeks or so, or 300/350 klms. I rather suspect so.

Today was another day of houses and buildings, a couple of which were pretty impressive, and some other things. Our accommodation and host last night (Andreas) was/were lovely. I shared a couple of photos yesterday; here is the breakfast spread (for just the two of us).

The walk out of Arthez afforded us some lovely views of the Pyrenees. Given that they are some 45klms away as the crow flies (and maybe more) the photos don't really do the view justice.

Here's a few general shots (mostly buildings again, because I just love the architecture):

I have always liked the French motto liberté, égalité, fraternité for what it represents. Every mairie displays the motto, and I rather liked the style of this one.

Sometimes these rest spots just pop up

And of course a few selfies (all near Maslacq, as we crossed the main railway line, then the Ousse River, then the A64, one after another) ...

One the social front we seem to be leapfrogging with a French couple Martine and Benoit. She has very little English (more than my French), he has no English but can speak Spanish, albeit heavily accented, so our "conversations" are, shall we say, stilted.

But tonight we've ended up in the gite with the two of them, and also Charles, a 30-something psychiatrist with whom we had a good chat (he has very good English). It was interesting to hear his views on some of the social problems in France, and his views on President Macron. He started his walk in Lyon, and is planning to go all the way to SdC.

And now to today's two main buildings. The first is the Chateau Maslacq:

The château was originally an abbey, the existence of which is recorded in the 16th century. It was occupied by the d'Abbadie d'Arboucave family for three centuries. It would seem to be in need of some maintenance, but all the same is an imposing building.

The next, equally perhaps more imposing, is L'église St Jacques le Majeur, and L'Abbaye de Sauvelade attached to it (the other way round actually).

Church with Abbey behind it

The church was built by the monks after the monastery was affiliated to the order of Cîteaux in 1286. Fabulous history. The church has a sound show which explains much of the background; however in French and not much use to me.

The back of the Abbey

The abbey appears to be under some sort of renovation plan, and so it is not accessible to the public.

To close, below the fairly basic gite where we are staying tonight. The food at the attached restaurant was excellent. And a group selfie ...