Planning

Dix-huitième jour - Saturday 4th July, Pomps - Arthez-de-Béarn - 10.0 klms (running total approx 325.3)

The "official" guidebook (nothing's really official, you can do what you like) has recent past and future walking stages set at around 30klms/day. Whilst we've had two days approaching this number, and one to come, actually planning to have multiple days at these distances seemed like a bridge too far to me. So wherever possible I chopped them in half. It doesn't always work out that way due to accommodation options, which was why yesterday was a 21 klm day and today only 10.

We casually left Pomps (and hostess Kathy and husband) around 9am, and even allowing for a couple of heart-busting hills followed by an enforced rest break, got in to Arthez-de-Béarn before midday, in time to do a quick lap of the local marche.

Adieu to Kathy and hubby at Pomps

Janet made an interesting observation today. Everyone we've met - or at least everyone we've spoken to - is an experienced walker, having undertaken multiple caminos and other walks. We're reasonably experienced, but in some cases we pale by comparison. The Americans last night had done many walks in central America (mostly Costa Rica), but had also hiked the full Appalachian Trail, at 2,200 miles, quite an achievement. Certainly no-one that we know of is undertaking this as their first walk.

In theory our accommodation here in Arthez wasn't going to be ready until 4pm, which gave us plenty of wasting time. Bought a couple of travelling supplies (the cherries 🍒 here are fabulous) at the market, then sat on a bench just off the town square watching the hazy Pyrenees. Then repaired to the nearby Le Penguuin Alternatif bar/coffee shop for a couple of coffees and to do some next few days' planning.

We've got moderate walks ahead of us, except for one day, but depending on which weather site one looks at, the temperatures are rising again. I needed to be sure that my previous accommodation choices were still OK, and that we could get meals. A few WhatsApp and booking.com messages seems to have got that all sorted.

And then at 2pm Andreas, our host for the evening, msg'd to say the room was ready; bonus. Nice room overlooking the garden and the mountains in the distance.

Working backwards (not walking backwards 😀) a few photos from the couple of hours on the road today. Mostly it was a house/building day:

Love the inherent dichotomy here ...

Spot the bicycle

And now the obligatory church ⛪️ (in this case le Chapelle de Caubin). The local tourist bureau advises:

On the outskirts of Arthez-de-Béarn, the Caubin Chapel was built around 1154 at the request of Gaston IV the Crusader to become a commandership of the Order of the Knights of Malta. Its strategic position along the way of the pilgrims made it a place of welcome, rest and protection, in the heart of the Middle Ages of Béarnais.

Today classified as a Historical Monument, it remains one of the most significant testimonies of Romanesque art in Béarn. Its architecture, typical of the region, combines sobriety and strength: a plan in hemicycle, thick walls in blonde stone, a roof with four slopes and an elegant bell tower-wall. You first notice the tranquility of the site, then the fineness of the details: traces of old coating, regular apparatus of the stone, balanced volumes.

Today's almost like another rest day. I'd originally planned a rest day here, but re-arranged things, which in hindsight was a good call. Although this is a sizeable town (population a little under 2,000), it's city centre is quite tiny and with relatively few shops. Saturday night and none of the restaurants are open - one, maybe two, bars, and a pizza van.

The distant (but getting closer) Pyrenees

Wendy's bar, the only place open, and almost no-one in sight

Sole dinner option

Knowing that there were limited dining options, our host, Andreas, had set the table for bring home pizza.

Off to Sauvelade tomorrow - another "split" day - 17.7 klms.