Day 35 - Adiós Via; Westward Ho ...
- pac
- Oct 21, 2023
- 2 min read
Fri 20th Oct., Granja de Moreruela to Tabara, theoretically 25klms, probably more ...
Those who know me will appreciate that I'm a "glass half full" person by nature. I can usually find the positive in people, situations and events. Today was not one of those days, and so in advance please forgive me being a bit grumbly.
I had been looking forward to the start of the Sanabrés, hence the cheery title. But the elements had different ideas. Yesterday’s westerly wind had strengthened, which meant that for almost all of the 7 hours on the track we walked into a ~40 kph headwind. With gusts higher. All day.
It didn't help that Janet and I got separated; in part intentionally while I went off to explore a scenic route for an hour or so, but in practice for some 3 hours over 11/12 klms. No-one's fault; just one of those things that happens. But not good timing; on a more pleasant day those three hours would have skipped on by.
The winds were incessant. They raced across mostly cleared corn and sunflower fields with hardly a tree in sight to interrupt their onslaught. Walking into such headwinds drains your physical energy, and that chews into your mental energy, and after a while that starts to attack your spirit, your will to continue. I've walked in some inhospitable places, and had some tough days, but this was one of the toughest. Unpleasant. Unenjoyable.
These are my thoughts - I won't speak for J but leave it to her to add a comment if she wishes.
I had planned to make some further comments on Granja, but they're going to have to wait now, I don't have the energy to write a more detailed post.
I'll finish with some photos - the day wasn't all bad (glass half full).
You know which one we chose
Same same ...
Early in the day and still relatively fresh. But head down into the wind all the same
Scenery from one of my ill-considered diversions early in the day
Puente Quintos over el Rio Esla
All the above in the first hour. After that it was head down into the wind, looking no more than 1 metre ahead. No energy or opportunity to look around, until I got to Faramontanos de Tabara, 18 klms into the day, and the village where Janet and I reunited.
Traditional bodegas at Faramontanos de Tabara.
That'll do for today, other than to say that el pronóstico del tiempo mañana tells us that the winds will drop considerably. Let us hope so ...
What a tough day - and so much harder to do separately . But as the bard says, alls well that ends well. Hoping the winds drop tomorrow
PC I remember feeling like this after a particularly long lonely day on the Overland, but now the memory is not so clear, just how wonderful and joyous the whole experience was.
My feelings? Let me share my thoughts while walking into a blustery head wind that never gave up. ‘Why TF am I doing this?’ ‘I want to go home.’ ‘Today is one of the worst days ever. Not on the Camino, but ever.’
Then fast forward to 10 o’clock in the evening, after a feed and a few vinos tintos, I’m prepared to do it all again tomorrow (and the next day…. ).
When Peter and I reunited about 1km before Faramontanos de Tabara (after about 3 hours apart) not a word was said to each other, not through anger or exhaustion, just the unspoken dread we both felt. When I got to sit down at the bar, with a…
Hi Peter,
very sorry to hear that you have another tough day of walking to add to your list.
Great to hear you and Janet found each other and continued on.
well done you two. You are amazing!
Libby
Hi Peter, I want to tell you that hardships seem to improve the quality of your writing. I loved your post today. I'm sure you'll look back on today as a great day after a while, a day to remember as adventurous, and proof that you were in great shape. Plus, hey, you got rid of the higher temperatures back in Extremadura! Lucky you! (mahz)